a gathering place for the words, images and momentos of the world of adventures i've adventured, the stories i've wandered through. curriculum bella vita...a resume, of sorts, of the good life.

Sunday, January 30, 2011

Delightful Delhi

Flight from Hyderabad to Delhi – 2 hours, costs ~$200 roundtrip

First impression: “Wow, this place is civilized.”

Purpose: Two days of training and consultations at the embassy, both made much more useful with a few weeks on the job under my belt. Pretty amazing to see the differences in lifestyle between a work-in-progress micro-consulate versus one of America’s largest embassies, home to a thousand American staffers and a sprawling compound complete with baseball diamond, well-stocked commissary, clinic and...yes...hamburgers.

Sightseeing:

Marvelous. Andrew and I stayed until Sunday to enjoy the capital. After our time in the diplomatic enclave, we stayed in Connaught Circus. It’s a nice centrally located commercial hub. A place, unlike Hyderabad, where it’s easy to enjoy Mexican food and share a dinner table with a gaggle of Germans working here in the publishing industry. Even the bars were better, thanks in part to Asian lady karaoke, even if Andrew was drinking illegally thanks to Delhi’s 25 year old drinking age!

We chose to travel mostly by Delhi’s moder metro, which borders pretty close to phenomenal! Most often it’s ridiculously crowded, but that’s half the fun. Trains come very often, fare is cheap. The first car of each train is reserved for women only. We were a bit jealous of the much more comfortable-looking “lady trains.”

India Gate
Rajpath
Rastrapati Bhavan
New Delhi train station *
Connaught Place
Chadni Chowk
Red Fort
Old City of Shahjahanabad
Jama Masjid
Qut’b Minar
Archeological Area

* Not actually a tourist destination. Avoid.

We didn’t get to see everything we wanted to see in one day, but two days would be plenty to add Humayan’s Tomb and a few other noteables to your list before moving on to the rest of the Golden Triangle.

DO NOT stay at Jukaso Hotel. Nice location, but a little pricey for what you get and they arrange sketchy taxi cabs.

DO NOT walk from the Qut’b Minar metro stop to the Qut’b Minar. It’s asking for confusion. Take an autorickshaw, it should be 40 rupees or less. But if you feel like stroll on the way back and have a map, take the time to walk through the Mehrauli Archeological Park. It’s not as compact as the Qut’b Minar Complex, but has just as many lesser-visited treasures.

Friday, January 28, 2011

Squiggles on Reverse

it's like i have a normal career.


except the back of my business card is a bunch of squiggles.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Republic Day with the Kids

I’m not beyond making friends on the internet. Usually, in fact, it’s worked out pretty well in the past, and no reason to think it’d be any different in a booming high-tech city with a huge population of young professionals working for all sorts of MNCs.

First step? Joining two local “meet-up” groups. One linking up folks interested in adventure, the other sports.

Last weekend, I autorickshawed to the lakeside Sanjeeviah Park for a pick-up ultimate frisbee game. Nine guys and a gal with a pretty wide range of ultimate experience – stretching from too worried about defensive strategic alignments versus never thrown a Frisbee before. In the combination of the two, a great morning of frisbee.

And today? Republic Day in India.

A holiday to celebrate the world’s largest democracy. And it’s longest constitution. At the moment, a whopping 395 articles and already 94 amendments only 61 years into the experimet.

The adventure group had a few activities lined up for the mid-week holiday, but only one really caught my eye. Hanging out with orphaned schoolchildren at a local deer park?

Yes, please.

The adult half of the meet-up gathered just outside the gate of a local women’s college. (My first monkey sighting in India was a cute little troop scampering atop the masonry wall guarding the college.) Most people didn’t know too many people there, small pockets introduced themselves. It was nice to see a familiar face from ultimate frisbee.

A Microsoft programmer here, an Infosys business analyst there. BEP folks, in our consular slang, as they come from the types of companies that have strong reputations and can get a spot in our Business Executive Program for easier visa processing.

English is the default link language for young professionals in a place like Hyderabad. Some people are from here, others from up north or different parts of the south. Most were educated in English-medium schools and it’s obviously the lingua franca in the international hi-tech offices.

We bussed to the orphanage, a modest house-sized concrete building in a residential neighborhood. (Aadarana.) A colorful awning covering the bare roof, offering the biggest open indoor space. With curious eyes, uniformed boys shyly offered their hands. Curiosity doubled to wonder as I offered a “Namaskaramu! Na peru Jeremy. Mee peru emi?”

One of the hardest parts about starting to understand a new culture, I’ve found, is learning about names. In Hungary, I can remember how baffled my ears were by the Zsofi’s and Gyongyi’s of the world, let alone adding surnames into the mix, too. Same now in India, I don’t know what names to expect, and can’t always here what they’re trying to say. The only solution? A spare pen in my pocket and the canvas of my palm. A growing list of names and initials.

Free of a set plan or agenda, a plopped down on the floor amid a sea of brown eyes and black hair. I spread out a state highway map, a favored hobby in Hungary, and a crowd of brown hands poked at the innards of Eau Claire and Ashwaubenon as I explained in a blend of three languages a little about my little corner of America. Five minutes later we switched, they told me more about themselves, in an easy blend of three languages. I had to work hard to keep the German and Hungarian out.

After an hour, the official program began. The partner girl’s orphanage arrived in a variety of colored uniforms, one per grade. Then the orphanage’s benefactor arrived. He raised the ceremonial tricolor, high aloft portraits of Gandhi, Nehru and Dr. Ambedkar, to a rowdy anthem. The next minute, he asked each of the children what they wanted to be when they grew up. First the boys. Software engineer, doctor and cricketeer were the leading responses. Then, my favorite part, the girls, too. Doctor and teacher were most common. All to applause from 50 young adult adventurers. I smiled a lot.

We loaded back onto the buses, this time with 50 extra little sets of smiles, headed outside the city limits to the deer park. The facility itself was a little anticlimactic, and hardly deserving of the national park label on the ticket window. A little safari bus rumbles down a dusty dirt path with occasional glimpses of deer and peacocks in a savannah-like natural environment. A five-minute loop dumps you back outside the animal fence.

Better, of course, was fun with kids. Small circles eventually evolved into a big game of duck-duck-goose, although they used none of those words. If caught, you had to do a dance or sing a song in the middle. I know this may be hard to believe, but I strongly believe I was racial profiled, which led directly to the center stage.

I only had to think for a moment. It was chicken dance time. “I will teach an American dance,” I proclaimed in Telugu to cheers. I might have described the specifics, though, in English. A minute later, a hundred first-timers were snapping their beaks, flapping their wings, wiggling their butts and clapping their hands. While getting faster each round, of course.

It proved so popular I had to break out the Hokey Pokey ten minutes later, so these kids are set for their first American wedding...

Sunday, January 23, 2011

First Visitor Visa

First visitor visa confirmed!! ETA, Aprilish!

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Settling In

The more I’m here, and the more I see, the more I’m convinced that I’ve found myself in a fabulous place. With each corner of the city that we see for the first time, my definition of Hyderabad expands from the busy, crowded, noisy pseudo-Westernized concrete commercial conglomerate – supposedly, of course, the best part of town – to a more holistic and far more interesting sum of so many parts. Egeszsegedre to that.

Friday, January 21, 2011

Big Box Day

The day's arrived, a glorious day!


250 lbs of typewriters, toilet paper, ties, (now already-blown-out) computer speakers, tennis and camping gear, two yeas of contact solution have arrived.

And, of course, a winter coat.


And in side the pocket of that winter coat?

One cell phone. Slow-boated to India instead of connecting with friends on my last days in America. Awesome.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Mom Makes a Friend

Eleven exclamation points at 6:06 am...that's a whole lotta excitement!